We had the day to see the sights of Lima. Unfortunately we missed the changing of the guards at the palace. We did
see the beautiful Cathedral and the governmental buildings around the Plaza de Armas. The afternoon we spent on a
terras drinking (coca) tea. In the evening we took the night coach to Huaraz.
Our first day of walking. We were exhausted after just a few hundred meters since we tried to walk asif we were at
sea level in stead of at some 3300 meter (11,000 ft.). One person got sick, while another had heart rhythm
disturbances for a few minutes... Back at the hotel we drank some 'Inca Cola'. Yuk! Very sweet stuff!
Transfer by coach to the town where our real journey starts. On our way we have a very nice view of the
mountainrange we will walk around over the next 10 days. We arrive early in the afternoon and decide to take a walk
around the lovely quiet town. In the evening we play some football (soccer) with a couple local kids. They easily
beat us because we have to gasp for air after every 10 yard run... At night, before we go to bed, we go the the
border of the town to have a good view of the starry sky (the first time we ever saw the nightly sky on the southern
hemisphere). Beautiful, especially the milky way!
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Insight Guides Peru (Insight Guides) by Pam Barett, Pam Barrett |
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Lonely Planet Peru (Lonely Planet Peru, 4th Ed) by Rob Rachowiecki |
A long day to start with. Not much difference in height though. In the afternoon we play volleyball with the kids in
Llamac. When they see Patricia writing in her diary (with Miffy on the cover), they all gather to have a look.
Patricia takes the opportunity to learn them a few Dutch words.
The morning starts with a bit of rain which turns into snow during our ascent to Paso Cacanan. A beautiful route
today! Our guide decides to spread this day across two days because the original route would be too exhausting
(across two passes with a lot of ascending and descinding). This allows us to visit the lake near the Rondoy which
we otherwise would have had to miss. Our guide goes fishing and catches a beautiful salmon trout.
In the early morning it's a bit foggy, but the sun clears the sky with its warmth soon. Great views of the beautiful
mountains during the day. In the afternoon we hear the rumbling of avalanches. A little later we are able to spot
them on the slopes of the Siula Granda (the other side than the side Joe Simpson had his close encounter with
death). Some locals rent us some camping space. We buy some nice trouts from them and our guides catch some more to
ensure a splendid meal for diner. Machella gets to eat the best part of the salmon trout our guide caught yesterday
since today's here birthday. Today we saw a Viscacha!
Again great views of the mountains surrounding us. Walking here really makes you feel small and not a person in
sight for hours.
And once again beautiful mountains all around.
Today we visit the highest point of our journey at the Paso Cuyoc, just above 5000 meter (16,800 ft.). It's a
steep climb and even steeper descent. At the top the wind is very cold. Arjen has problems with his stomach (probably
because of the altitude). After a very long day (two days combined to one to make up for spreading one day across
two earlier in the journey). In the evening we played volleyball with the locals again (the Peruvians, especially the
girls, are very good at it!).
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Frommer's Peru by Neil E. Schlecht |
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Footprint Peru Handbook by Ben Box, Alan Murphy |
A long climb to cover a difference in altitude of 1200 meters (4,000 feet). Arjen and Patricia fall behind because
they have to make way for some mules to pass. In an attempt to join the group again they walk faster than they
really can. Patricia starts hypervetilating and has to continue on horseback. Then Arjen has to make up even more
distance to the group. When he joins the others and hopes for a few minutes rest, everybody gets up and
startswalking again. Arjen is too tired and decides it's wiser to continue on horseback too. At Paso Tapusch the
group is together again and everybody is able to continue the journey on on foot. Later in the evening it starts to
snow! Arjen decides it's time to start using O.R.S. to prevent himself from drying out.
When we wake up, everything is covered with snow. This of course leads to a snowball fight. Again a pass at a high
altitude today. Arjen still has problems with the altitude and exhasution from the previous day and has to go to the
pass on horseback. On the way up, part of the group (like for instance Patricia) takes the opportunity to do some
abseiling. At the pass we have a good look at the other side of the Siula Grande. It doesn't look that difficult
from a distance. Perhaps that fooled Joe Simpson too. A beautiful route again. Arjen still has to take O.R.S...
Today we head back to Llamac where we were before already. Arjen is feeling much better again (thanks to two days of
taking O.R.S.) and out of sheer joy decides to run up a hill...
We go back to Huaraz by coach and spend the afternoon taking a long shower and visiting the local market. In the
afternoon we witness a pro Toledo demonstration. Later we found out that he was inaugurated that day. We visit
an internet cafe and send home an e-mail with the message that we have arrived again in Huaraz.
