Peru - Cordillera Huayhuash trekking - SNP - July 2001

Below you will find a long list of pictures (approximately 120), taken on the Cordillera Huayhuash trip organized by SNP from July 11 2001 to July 30 2001.
The most interesting images have a red bullet in front of them. In a hurry? Just want to see the pictures? Check out the slide show.
Most of the days we kept track of how much time we spent walking. This is excluding the time for breaks.

July 11: In Lima

Late in the evening we arrived in Lima and went to the hotel and straight to bed.

July 12: In Lima

We had the day to see the sights of Lima. Unfortunately we missed the changing of the guards at the palace. We did see the beautiful Cathedral and the governmental buildings around the Plaza de Armas. The afternoon we spent on a terras drinking (coca) tea. In the evening we took the night coach to Huaraz.

July 13: In Huaraz

We arrived in Huaraz around 6.15am. We spend some time enjoying the winter sun (Arjen immediately got sunburn in his neck) and made some short walks.

July 14: Parque Nacional Huascaran - Llanganuco sector

Our first day of walking. We were exhausted after just a few hundred meters since we tried to walk asif we were at sea level in stead of at some 3300 meter (11,000 ft.). One person got sick, while another had heart rhythm disturbances for a few minutes... Back at the hotel we drank some 'Inca Cola'. Yuk! Very sweet stuff!
This day we walked approximately 3h10m.

July 15: Parque Nacional Huascaran - Churup sector

Day to to get accustomed to the altitude. A nice walk at some 4300 meter (14,300 ft.). Some (e.g. Patricia) extended this with a visit to lake Churup. Arjen falls down the steep side of the hill, but his backpack saves him from rolling down for more than a yard or two. His shin has some scratches. Waiting for the iodine to dry, the skin around the part that is covered with iodine gets sunburned... even in winter, the sun in Peru is very bright!
This day we walked approximately 3h40m.

July 16: Transfer Huaraz to Chiquián

Transfer by coach to the town where our real journey starts. On our way we have a very nice view of the mountainrange we will walk around over the next 10 days. We arrive early in the afternoon and decide to take a walk around the lovely quiet town. In the evening we play some football (soccer) with a couple local kids. They easily beat us because we have to gasp for air after every 10 yard run... At night, before we go to bed, we go to the border of the town to have a good view of the starry sky (the first time we ever saw the nightly sky on the southern hemisphere). Beautiful, especially the milky way!


Some nice books about Peru:

Insight Guides Peru (Insight Guides) by Pam Barett, Pam Barrett
Lonely Planet Peru (Lonely Planet Peru, 4th Ed) by Rob Rachowiecki


July 17: Chiquián to Llamac

A long day to start with. Not much difference in height though. In the afternoon we play volleyball with the kids in Llamac. When they see Patricia writing in her diary (with Miffy on the cover), they all gather to have a look. Patricia takes the opportunity to learn them a few Dutch words.
This day we walked approximately 6 hours.

July 18: Llamac to Matacancha

Again a long journey after a chilly night and dogs walking around our tents and barking until early in the morning. You get to see the influence of the Japanese mining companies. The road we take has been created by them for easier access to the region. It's a shame the landscape is destroyed like this. In the afternoon there are some showery spells.
This day we walked approximately 4h50m.

July 19: Matacancha to Janca

The morning starts with a bit of rain which turns into snow during our ascent to Paso Cacanan. A beautiful route today! Our guide decides to spread this day across two days because the original route would be too exhausting (across two passes with a lot of ascending and descending). This allows us to visit the lake near the Rondoy which we otherwise would have had to miss. Our guide goes fishing and catches a beautiful salmon trout.
This day we walked approximately 3h30m.

July 20: Janca to Carhuaccocha

In the early morning it's a bit foggy, but the sun clears the sky with its warmth soon. Great views of the beautiful mountains during the day. In the afternoon we hear the rumbling of avalanches. A little later we are able to spot them on the slopes of the Siula Granda (the other side than the side Joe Simpson had his close encounter with death). Some locals rent us some camping space. We buy some nice trouts from them and our guides catch some more to ensure a splendid meal for diner. Machella gets to eat the best part of the salmon trout our guide caught yesterday since today's here birthday. Today we saw a Viscacha!
This day we walked approximately 3 hours.

July 21: Carhuaccocha to Huayhuash

Again great views of the mountains surrounding us. Walking here really makes you feel small and not a person in sight for hours.
This day we walked approximately 4h40m.

July 22: Huayhuash to Laguna Viconga

And once again beautiful mountains all around.
This day we walked approximately 4 hours.

July 23: Laguna Viconga to Huayllapa

Today we visit the highest point of our journey at the Paso Cuyoc, just above 5000 meter (16,800 ft.). It's a steep climb and even steeper descent. At the top the wind is very cold. Arjen has problems with his stomach (probably because of the altitude). After a very long day (two days combined to one to make up for spreading one day across two earlier in the journey). In the evening we played volleyball with the locals again (the Peruvians, especially the girls, are very good at it!).
This day we walked approximately 6h45m.


Some nice books about Peru:

Frommer's Peru by Neil E. Schlecht
Footprint Peru Handbook by Ben Box, Alan Murphy


July 24: Huayllapa to Paso Tapusch

A long climb to cover a difference in altitude of 1200 meters (4,000 feet). Arjen and Patricia fall behind because they have to make way for some mules to pass. In an attempt to join the group again they walk faster than they really can. Patricia starts hypervetilating and has to continue on horseback. Then Arjen has to make up even more distance to the group. When he joins the others and hopes for a few minutes rest, everybody gets up and startswalking again. Arjen is too tired and decides it's wiser to continue on horseback too. At Paso Tapusch the group is together again and everybody is able to continue the journey on on foot. Later in the evening it starts to snow! Arjen decides it's time to start using O.R.S. to prevent himself from drying out.
This day we walked approximately 4h10m and spent about 45 minutes on the back of a horse.

July 25: Paso Tapusch to Jahuacocha

When we wake up, everything is covered with snow. This of course leads to a snowball fight. Again a pass at a high altitude today. Arjen still has problems with the altitude and exhasution from the previous day and has to go to the pass on horseback. On the way up, part of the group (like for instance Patricia) takes the opportunity to do some abseiling. At the pass we have a good look at the other side of the Siula Grande. It doesn't look that difficult from a distance. Perhaps that fooled Joe Simpson too. A beautiful route again. Arjen still has to take O.R.S...
This day we walked approximately 3h20m (Arjen spent 30 minutes on the back of a horse).

July 26: Jahuacocha to Llamac

Today we head back to Llamac where we were before already. Arjen is feeling much better again (thanks to two days of taking O.R.S.) and out of sheer joy decides to run up a hill...
This day we walked approximately 4h15m.

July 27: Llamac to Chiquián

Today is the last day of the hiking trip. It's not too difficult apart from a steep ascent at the very end of the route. We go to fast for Patricia who has to end the route on horseback after hyperventilating again.
This day we walked approximately 5h30m (Patricia spent the last 10 minutes on the back of a horse).
This makes for a total of 50h30m for this holiday!

July 28: Transfer Chiquián to Huaraz

We go back to Huaraz by coach and spend the afternoon taking a long shower and visiting the local market. In the afternoon we witness a pro Toledo demonstration. Later we found out that he was inaugurated that day. We visit an internet cafe and send home an e-mail with the message that we have arrived again in Huaraz.

July 29: Transfer Huaraz to Lima

The last day we spend travelling back to Lima. We have a stop at the beach where we have lunch, before we drive back to Lima. There we take the plane back home.